Speaking of Earth, there's one thing about vanilla that isn't so sweet. Lots of inexpensive perfumes flooded the market, making vanilla a dirty word." But she chose to embrace nostalgia, instead of fighting against it. "During the '80s and '90s, vanilla was overexposed and overused. ![]() "Back in the 1700s, vanilla was considered a very decadent, seductive note, but over the years it was used more and more like a candy-sweet note," she says. Like Shapiro, Rosie Jane Johnston also set out to shatter the stereotypes with the release of Dulce, the newest fragrance from her brand, By/Rosie Jane. Vanilla is captivating and beautiful but it can easily fall into being overdone or stereotypical." Shapiro teamed up with Meabh McCurtin, a New York-based Irish perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances, who used bourbon vanilla bean and Madagascar vanilla bean extract in the Vanilla Milk eau de parfum - as well as vanilla's natural companion, chocolate, by way of cocoa shell to add what McCurtin calls "a toasted note for an addictive quality." "There are already so many out there, and I wanted to contribute a fresh perspective to the scent landscape. "For years now, I've been trying to get a vanilla fragrance right," she says. And just like that, the Western world's love affair with all things vanilla was hot and heavy.īee Shapiro, founder of fragrance and skin-care brand Ellis Brooklyn, acknowledged - and intentionally undermined - the youthful connotations we're stuck on surrounding vanilla-based perfumes when she created her own brand's fragrance interpretation. Colonialism introduced vanilla to Europe as a sweetener added to chocolate and coffee in the 1520s, and by the 18th century, the French couldn't get enough of it in ice cream (or crème glacée, if you will). The ingredient's history is, indeed, long: In the 15th century, in a region called Papantla located in what is now the north-central section of the modern-day state of Veracruz, the Totonac people cultivated vanilla alongside cacao and achiote to concoct a spiced beverage - widely regarded as the plant's earliest recorded use. "Vanilla as an ingredient has stood the test of time because it's so complex and malleable and pairs wonderfully with other notes," says Malaika Jones, founder and CEO of beauty brand Brown Girl Jane. There’s an entire world of vanilla out there, of different species cultivated in different parts of the world, like siamensis and planifolia and tahitensis. ![]() The vanilla renaissance is upon us, and not just because I decided for myself that vanilla is good, actually. Flustered and embarrassed, I lied and said I was being sarcastic, then went home later that night to browse vanilla perfumes in incognito mode. Fucking Flowerbomb, Victor & Rolf's über-popular, once-ubiquitous queen of vanilla fragrances that's remained popular since its launch in 2005. "Ooh, what is that? It smells really good," I said to her. ![]() Mine was a roll-on of Nemat Amber oil, hers was a travel spray of something I didn't recognize - something warm, rich but not cloying, decidedly sweet, and altogether delicious. One of my best friends and I, tipsy in the backseat of an Uber going straight from dive bar to bachelorette party, paused to reapply our fragrances. My standing as both a longtime perfume lover who once considered Pink Sugar her "signature scent" and a person who, yes, would like to see the dessert menu stood directly at odds with my negative reaction to any fragrance with that sweet, syrupy note at the forefront.
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